Recently, a letter to young innovators has leaked to the Internet - from the sender of the Zvorykinsky Project. "All competent inventors" were invited to participate in the competition "from the well-known Russian public and statesman, ideologist of the cafe-bakery" Eshpirog "Vasily Yakemenko." The letter read: “Vasily is asking to help him upgrade the existing technology or come up with a new one, in which the filling from the cabbage pie DOES NOT KILL OUT (spelling and style are preserved. - Note H&F) ". The developer was promised a bonus of 300,000 rubles.
Yakemenko became a restaurateur in May 2012, when he left the civil service. Then he handed out an interview with a look of a triumph and received journalists of even those media with which, while he was heading Rosmolodezh, he did not want to deal. Even then, the problem of cabbage greatly worried Yakemenko: "I do not like the pie with cabbage, because cabbage falls out of it." Judging by the Zvorykinsky letter, he failed to find the philosopher's stone in nine months.
But the institution opened. The letter says so: "Pie" Yoshpirog "is a new and somewhat unique cafe. Modern technology for making pies is closely combined with recipes and interiors of old Russia." H&F went to the “pie” to evaluate the service, interiors and cabbage.
Kashin and plates
To get to visit Vasily Yakemenko, you have to take a metro trip to the Tekstilshchiki station. Near the metro there is an abundance of fast food: four European-style coffee houses, bakeries closed at nine in the evening, and seven tents announcing "fresh pastries" and "shawarma" (open, smoking, small lines). Also seen are Subway, "Stardug! S," "Baby Potato." This magnificence remains behind, and until another pirogovaya walk for 15 minutes along Lyublinskaya Street - halfway through the guest of the district, the sight of the well-fed Elk brewer with smoke and barbecue is tempting.
Pirogovaya does not smell of anything, but it shimmers with lights - a sign and New Year's lights. The cafe occupies 200 square meters on the ground floor of a residential building. A saleswoman with a thick bang and a light brown braid invites to warm up and drink tea. When I enter, she breaks away from the conversation with the guard - they are kind enough through the counter.
I’m looking at the blueberry pie, but the employee says: “I don’t advise pies. They’re standing all day.”
There are about a dozen pies on the window, and each is cut to half. Prices are per kilogram (from 400 to 1,000 rubles), that is, for a whole pie. There is nobody in the hall, although it is trodden in front of the counter. They kindly explain to me: the place is impassable, no one knows about the pie.
- How many people do you usually have during the day?
“Yes, as much as it is now,” the saleswoman says and retreats phlegmatically away towards the kitchen. An Asian cook sticks out from there, sees a visitor and is amazed: “Close soon!”
Eat me (don't eat me)
I ask for coffee, served a good American. It is noticeable that the decorators tried to decorate the room under the royal chambers, possibly under the influence of the film "Ivan Vasilyevich Changes the Profession": vaulted arches from drywall, on them photowall-paper with a floral a la ryus ornament. There are nine wooden tables in the room. The walls are pleasant yellow and completely bare. "We will hang plates, we began to collect a collection," the saleswoman nods to the windowsill. The largest plate is with the inscription "Kashin" and the landscape of the corresponding city. Yakemenko does not have a license for alcohol, so there is even no beer.
Pies from Yakemenko can be ordered anywhere in Moscow - it is not necessary to go to Tekstilshchiki. Starting in October, on Delivery.ru every two to three days, it appears gently after a laudatory recall. I order a cabbage pie to the editorial office around noon: "Now we will put the pie in the oven, we will bake for two hours, then the courier will go to you." The courier arrives at 16:00. He has one pie in his bag: "Your order is first." Cabbage really falls out, but this does not prevent him from being worthy of a fresh pie.
H&F asked the restaurant market participants what are the costs of such an institution and whether it has chances with such parameters. The result of the consensus analysis: Yakemenko spent 6-7 million rubles (Vasily confirmed); there is no chance to make the establishment profitable, although the product is more or less high-quality.
“Opening restaurants in sleeping areas is now very profitable, people have begun to go to such places,” says Vyacheslav Lankin, co-owner of Tapa de Comida restaurant. day". "Food delivery is needed for those who want to get the dish as soon as possible, ideally in the next hour," says RestCon company owner Andrei Petrakov. "In such a situation, when you need to wait five hours for dinner, only big pie lovers will become customers."
"No one understands how to eat a pie"
Newly made restaurateur
The main problem is that there is no market for pies, and not that the cabbage is falling out. Although in this too. A person does not understand how to eat a pie in society, he needs a pen in which cabbage falls out, to keep it ready at all times. And that sucks.
The market for pies, as I said, no. Yes, there is Stolle, there is Nikolay, but only I can make a market for real pies, of high quality. A person simply does not understand in what situation to order and eat a pie. And I will tell you which one: you need to buy it at the office, for a holiday or birthday, when you need to feed a lot of people.
Of course, you cannot call my project commercially successful. It will take me several months to rebuild the work. But in December 2012, we first came to self-sufficiency (for this we need to sell 150 pies per day, while the capacity of the bakery is 400 pies). December, on the one hand, is holidays and corporate parties, but on the other, we have expanded the geography of sales. Now our pies are sold in a cafe at the airports (did not specify names. - Note H&F) and in vending machines in the metro (the editors did not find such, with the exception of pizza. -Note H&F) I’m not sure that success can be repeated in the coming months, but we will try.
Of course, I do not consider the cafe in Tekstilshchiki as a serious source of income. We have not yet understood why we need it. If it was in the center, there would be a show room. But at the same time, we work out the layout on the counter, the design, some other things. The appearance of the second and third bakery is a matter of time. Plus, I'm doing a franchise.
Photos: Zarina Kodzaeva