There are thousands of cafes and restaurants in Moscow, and new ones are opened every week, but the list of favorite places where you go not for the sake of curiosity, but for your acquaintance and trusted, rarely changes over time. Life around continues the section, which is dedicated to just such favorite places. In the new issue, Nelli Konstantinova talked about where you can try hot soufflés, rare for Moscow, and where to go to dine with four for 50 euros.
Journalist, chief editor of CNTraveller
Homemade sausages with scallops, Norwegian lobster and seafood - 950 rubles,
Strasbourg pie - 850 rubles,
Tea Melange du Jardin de Maman - 380 rubles
for 400 milliliters,
Rum-woman with pineapple and raisins - 380 rubles
About the place
All my life and work takes place on Bolshaya Dmitrovka street, so I observed the development of the Most restaurant in dynamics. At first it was “Bridge” with a nightclub in the basement - a rather strange place, but very cool: the iPad had not yet been invented, and you could come to Breakfast in “Bridge” and ask the waiter to bring MacBook coffee at the same time, enter the restaurant network and read news. The restaurant opened in 2006, it was much more pompous, with high prices and huge burgundy velvet curtains.
We received the message that the restaurant was closed for reconstruction, with great enthusiasm, especially when I found out that Alexander Rapoport will be engaged in the new menu. Alexander is a man with the unconditional talent of a deli and with a love of food. It seems to me that he will be able to revive any place. Russian designers from Wowhaus made the interior layered: it is interesting to consider it, recognizing different eras, it is an excellent work. At the same time, the updated "Bridge" is more democratic and understandable. There are more tables, but also there is that pretty French crowded brasserie where you can hear what they are talking at the next table.
Beautiful interior is just the background for the menu, which, in my opinion, is simply brilliant. Sasha Rapoport was the first in Moscow to ask the chef to make normal regional French food. Before that, it seemed to everyone that French cuisine is always high gastronomy and complex heavy sauces. Now it turned out that this is something else and that the first place in Moscow, where regional French food is well prepared, is Brasserie Bridge. The menu says where each dish comes from; they make food here that France grew up on.
The menu takes only one page, but with pastes and terrines there is a whole section - I really love them and often cook at home. The homemade sausages section is great too. My favorites are seafood and duck neck with buckwheat. I really like the local Nicoise salad, the barbadjan pies with veal from southern cuisine, onion soup, amazing risotto - honest and easy. The “Brasserie Bridge” has delicious desserts: in Moscow, for example, hot souffles are rare, but here they are also very tasty. A rum woman who just swims in syrup and is soaked in rum like a sponge is also beautiful. I enjoy eating millefeuille with berries, it is non-greasy and not too sweet, good gratin from pear with persimmon. I think you need to go to the "Brasserie Bridge" if you want to understand why French cuisine is so appreciated in the world.
I also like that the Brasserie Bridge team constantly comes up with something: in the fall, for example, they launched the festival menu of regional cuisines, which is updated every month. I have a discount on the daily menu, so when I go to lunch, sometimes I buy food at home for dinner. A friend of mine is very good at wine. He said that here is one of the best wine lists that he has seen. There are many wines here that are not found anywhere in Moscow, and since my friend has a very good memory and taste, I trust him.
Four more favorite places
Oldich Dress & Drink
In a good sense, this is not a Moscow place that harmoniously combines a vintage clothing store and a cafe. Pleasant atmosphere, beautiful things and food - a great neighborhood. From the food at Oldich, I like the duck leg of the confit and some salads.
I love “Lamb” for constancy: they do not change the portion sizes, ingredients, quality. This is the stability that should be in any city.
The restaurant is located in a small town where there are no tourists at all. This is a city of fishermen with reserved island beaches and local grandmothers in tows and with dogs. Everything is simple there: if you come in the evening, the fish will definitely be an evening catch, not a morning one. A dinner for four with wine in this restaurant costs about 50 euros.
Megu has a brilliant staff. This is a wonderful restaurant with real beef wagyu and delicious asparagus breaded by Japanese crackers. Lighting, aromas, Japanese ceramics - all this is an absolute symphony and a very high level of gastronomy.
Photos: Mark Boyarsky, Olya Eichenbaum, Novikovgroup.ru